Zurich does not have one Christmas market, it has seven, and each one does a different job. One keeps you dry, one sings, one sells what Zurich makes, and one sits on a hill above the fog. Six of them lie within a 25-minute walk of each other, so the only real decision is the order.
01Polarzauber in the main station
- Under a roof
- In the station
- Fondue carriage
- Kids’ train
Step off the train and you are already there. More than a hundred huts fill the hall of Zurich HB around a giant tree that Lindt now hangs with Lindor balls, where the Swarovski crystal tree used to stand. It is the one market with a roof, so it is where everyone goes when the sleet starts. Many people still call it the Christkindlimarkt.
Go here firstThe Parsennbahn, an old railway carriage where fondue is served. Get a table in the afternoon, before the after-work crowd arrives, while the children ride the little Lindt train.
Daily from 11 am, until 9 pm (10 pm Thursday to Saturday); 24 December until 4 pm
02Zürcher Weihnachtsallee on Europaallee
- Outdoors
- Next to the station
- Fondue till midnight
Walk out of the station's south side and the modern street along the tracks swaps lanes and gables for street food and design stalls, with a karaoke bar thrown in. About eighty exhibitors take turns through the season while the Glühstube pours mulled wine. At weekends, mini markets pop up as well.
Best as a late last stopIt sits beside the station, off the walking route below, and its fondue chalet serves until midnight every day, long after the Old Town huts have shut. Come back here to end a late evening rather than start one.
Daily from 11 am, closing at 10 pm (8 pm on Sunday); fondue served until midnight
03The Singing Christmas Tree on Werdmühleplatz
- Outdoors
- About 8 min from HB
- Carousel
A few steps off Bahnhofstrasse, rows of singers stand on the tiers of a stage built like a fir, and more than forty choirs take turns through the season. A fondue chalet stands beside it, and the children's carousel costs CHF 3 a ride.
Time it rightIts late start catches people out, so check the hours below before you set off. Come after dark and stand near the front. Twenty minutes is plenty on your way down to the Old Town.
From 4 pm on weekdays, 1 pm at weekends; until 9 or 10 pm
The trick with Zurich's markets is not to choose one. Walk from the station to the lake, and let each square do the one thing it does best.
04Weihnachtsmarkt Münsterhof
- Outdoors
- About 15 min from HB
- Open 24 Dec
In front of the Fraumünster, a smaller and smarter square where most huts belong to Zurich shops and labels, so what you take home was made or chosen here. Concerts play on most evenings. A local tour operator calls it the most upscale market in town.
Go here firstThe mulled wine, brewed on the spot. Then browse for gifts. If you are still shopping on Christmas Eve, this is one of only two markets that open that day.
11 am to 9:30 pm, Sunday until 7:30 pm; open on 24 December
05Weihnachtsmarkt Dörfli in the Niederdorf
- Outdoors
- About 10 min from HB
- Fire shows
- Candle dipping
Cross the Limmat by the Münsterbrücke, pass under the twin towers of the Grossmünster, and you are in the market that looks like the postcards. Around seventy huts squeeze into the narrow lanes of the Niederdorf on the right bank. Come on a weeknight if you can, since Saturday evenings in the narrow lanes can slow to a shuffle.
Go here firstThe fire shows on Zwingliplatz and Hirschenplatz, then the Märlibaracke on Zähringerplatz, where children dip their own candles. Ask at the huts for the day's show times.
From 11 am; until 9 pm on weeknights, 10 pm on Friday and Saturday, 8 pm on Sunday
06Bellevue Noël on Sechseläutenplatz
- Outdoors
- About 20 min from HB
- Fondue for 600
- Carousel
Follow the river down to the lake and the big square by the Opera House opens up. It now hosts Bellevue Noël, which took over from the Wienachtsdorf, with around a hundred stalls of local and eco-minded products. Its landmark is a walk-on Advent wreath 164 feet (50 m) across, with a platform about 16 feet (5 m) up. Children get a carousel and a teddy workshop. There is even a postbox for their wish lists.
Go here firstThe wreath. Climbing it is free but needs a time-slot ticket, so check the market's page to see how the time slots work. Go up at dusk, then warm up in the fondue chalet that seats 600. On each Advent Sunday another candle is lit.
11 am to 10 pm, Sunday until 8 pm; the chalet bar until midnight Monday to Saturday
07Uetliberger Weihnachtsmarkt, up on the hill
- Outdoors
- 25 min by train
- Weekends only
The odd one out. On seven weekends, starting earlier in November than the city markets, hobby craftspeople set up at Hotel Uto Kulm on Zurich's own mountain. Take the S10 from the main station, then walk up a short hill. On a foggy day the top is sometimes in sunshine.
Go here firstThe Bavarian curling lane, then a candle-dipping table, then fondue in the Maiensäss. A grey Saturday is the right day for it.
Weekends only; Saturday noon to 8 pm, Sunday 10 am to 6 pm
6Within a 25-minute walk
1Under a roof
2Open on Christmas Eve
12 amLast fondue, at the Weihnachtsallee
Hours follow what the organizers published for the current season and walking times are rough. Every date and opening hour in one table.